tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-70007459131146633432024-03-14T01:04:13.014-07:00Is everybody happy? Our bus to motor home renovation. Follow us as we renovate a Nissan Civilian school bus into a fully functioning motor home with everything we need for tripping around the countryside.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15885210198538491361noreply@blogger.comBlogger36125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7000745913114663343.post-22359600160536618512016-03-11T22:24:00.001-08:002016-03-11T22:24:25.572-08:00Feeling a Bit Gassy.As I've already posted, the kitchenette has been in for some time.<br />
This week, the gas went on!<br />
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We had originally planned for a 9kg bottle but decided on a smaller bottle so we had more room and less hassle.<br />
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The hardest part was finding an accredited caravan/motor home fitter so he could give us our ticket which is required for the engineer certificate.<br />
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We found a guy who was willing to do the job and make the drive down. Fist visit he told us what we needed to do to be certified and cover safety regulations.<br />
This mostly involved a sealed box, accessible from the outside only, able to withstand a lot of force, bolted to the bus body with M8 bolts etc, lockable door, rear facing, bottom vents.<br />
These had to be a certain circumference and we had to add PVC pipes cut at an angle to stop a vacuume effect when traveling.<br />
The bottle had to be secured in a purpose made cradle which could also withstand force. We were lucky that the bus is diesel as there is a whole other list of drama with fuel and ignition points!<br />
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PHEW! Got that bit done and then had to wait a few months for the 2nd visit to arrive.<br />
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Well... yesterday was the day. we now have a functioning stove!<br />
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Here is the Dinette. The cupboard on the left has the gas box in it.</div>
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It got painted white and is all nice now.</div>
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See the vent holes with PVC pipes fitted? </div>
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The bottle bracket is a standard one off eBay.</div>
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Not sure if I posted about the door. It is a fibreglass one from Caravans Plus (see previous posts for link).</div>
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These signs are from eBay and the bottom one is from our local caravan shop. These are 'must haves' to get the ticket.</div>
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Our permanent vent is the window which must be opened when the cooker is in use. </div>
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Here is the first bit. A tap in the line and pipe to the stove.</div>
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All done! A regulator on and the cooker is ready to go. </div>
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(the bottle will be latched in when on the go, of course!)</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15885210198538491361noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7000745913114663343.post-3477135285096946312016-01-20T21:44:00.003-08:002016-01-20T21:44:45.899-08:00DinetteI don't think I have had a chance to write about our little dinette.<br />
The original plan was to put it on the other side of the bus but the gas storage wouldn't allow for it so we moved it over to the door side.<br />
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It is a pretty simple little thing.<br />
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First we insulated and lined the wall like we have in the rest of the bus, taking note of spots we could bolt the frame of the dinette to. We have used the same 3mm steel angles and M8 bolts as in the rest of the bus too.<br />
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The dinette frame was constructed using 4" x 2" structural pine.<br />
We made the box shape and bolted it together.<br />
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Next, we stuck and screwed the leftover bathroom WallArt lining on the outside. Durable, shiny, white and didn't cost us extra... win!<br />
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We added a white fire extinguisher mounting recess and screwed it in place by the door. This was purchased at a local caravan accessory place. The requirement is to have it near to the exit/entry and fire points. We will also have a larger one in the cabin area in case of engine/kitchen fires.<br />
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The lid of the dinette seat is laminated pine panel from Bunnings, routed with a bullnose and painted white. We used big 150mm hinges because it will be lifted often and sat on.<br />
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The clips ensure that the lid doesn't come open in travel, especially since it will store heavy objects such as a camp oven and the battery compartment.<br />
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Next is the table mount. We opted for the Lagun table arm as it is easily detached and has a number of options in moving/height adjustment. We purchased this from a yacht and boating store online. Expensive but worth it for the flexibility, quality and look of it.<br />
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The cushions for the seat are made from 3mm (back) and 4mm (seat) high density foam purchased cut to size from Aussie Disposals. This is durable and will not squash quickly. We made the covers using upholstery material from Spotlight ($9m on special!) and overlocking/sewing them.<br />
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<br />The little tabletop is made from the same laminated pine as the seat but we opted to varnish it to match the kitchenette benchtop.<br />
<br />We cut the table in half and routed it in such a way that it can be folded in half and still be functional as a small table. This saves space as it can be used by a single person or pushed out of the way more easily than a big table.<br />
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We reattached the halves using decorative hinges (Bunnings) and a rubber stopper, screwed to the Lagun arm, stops the table hyper-extending and breaking when in the open position. Tiny silicone stoppers means there will be no rattles and the table is level when closed. And that is that...<br />
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It is a 'special' little rail. Super slimline and comes with all the fittings.</div>
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The best parts are the fact that it can be ordered by the metre, cut to the perfect size when it arrives...</div>
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AND...</div>
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It can be bent to the shape of the roof!</div>
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Yay!</div>
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You can order some here: <a href="http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MINI-CURTAIN-TRACK-Brushed-Aluminium-Low-Profile-Bendable-Caravan-Van-RV-Boat-/141810144989?var=&hash=item21048b16dd:m:mXJwwxdOcZ-RESQaB8oe7_A">http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MINI-CURTAIN-TRACK-Brushed-Aluminium-Low-Profile-Bendable-Caravan-Van-RV-Boat-/141810144989?var=&hash=item21048b16dd:m:mXJwwxdOcZ-RESQaB8oe7_A</a></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">It will arrive by courier, taped to a long bit of wood so it doesn't get damaged.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">Anyway, we got ours and set about cutting it and bending it to shape. We had kept some of the stainless roof joiners from when we demolished the inside of the bus. My husband easily bent it to the right shape.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">Next we drilled and screwed it into the bus frame and popped on all of the sliding fittings. Easy.</span></div>
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Yesterday we had to drop a Christmas visitor off at the train station so we took advantage of the visit to town and hit the Boxing Day sales!</div>
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We managed to pick up the perfect curtain in Spotlight for a good price.</div>
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Today I re-hemmed the bottom, making it the right size and I hung it on the rail.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iqaxLuYwZZc/Vn9zZDNyNqI/AAAAAAAABjw/pnnT7hpyFic/s1600/IMG_0624.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iqaxLuYwZZc/Vn9zZDNyNqI/AAAAAAAABjw/pnnT7hpyFic/s320/IMG_0624.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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Bit tricky to get the hem perfect because there is a hump in the middle of the bus where the engine is.</div>
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<a href="https://goo.gl/photos/2Lg6nWXzpQ1B2tiq5">https://goo.gl/photos/2Lg6nWXzpQ1B2tiq5</a></div>
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It all tucks away behind the pantry cupboard. I'll probably secure it with a Velcro strap.</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15885210198538491361noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7000745913114663343.post-20196921798693143572015-12-11T22:06:00.000-08:002015-12-11T22:06:25.439-08:00The roof, the roof, the roof is on... well, it is in anyway.Note to other motor home/bus converting people:<br />
If you find something you like for your bus, make sure you buy as much as you're going to need, all at the one time!<br />
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We had enough of the white, shiny plastic coated ply for the roof interior (purchased at Mitre10 a long time ago) but only bought a couple of the 3mm plastic joining strips that we needed. It turned out that we needed LOTS more than we first expected. The trouble is, they didn't get it back in... and they couldn't order more! They pulled a gungy bit of the strip from the skip bin and gave it to us, but it still wasn't enough (I cleaned it up using toothpaste... it came up alright too!) <br /><br />ANYWAY...<br />
Today I found some.<br />
It was in our old caravan which my husband uses as a bit of a workshop.<br />
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SO...<br />
we put the ceiling in!<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AAlbTbUSzsY/UpcJ_Ge9xRI/AAAAAAAAA54/_ywdgCjVoVQ/s1600/IMG_1424.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AAlbTbUSzsY/UpcJ_Ge9xRI/AAAAAAAAA54/_ywdgCjVoVQ/s320/IMG_1424.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Remember this eBay purchase from AGES ago? I think it was about $83 (I think I might ave been the only bidder) and it came with a white interior surround which had a little roll out sun screen and a roll out fly screen. </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9LlhrpsmWQQ/UpcKC6SfZvI/AAAAAAAAA5k/zADy0_EZGck/s1600/IMG_1426.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9LlhrpsmWQQ/UpcKC6SfZvI/AAAAAAAAA5k/zADy0_EZGck/s320/IMG_1426.JPG" width="239" /></a></div>
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Here I've rolled 1/2 of each out so you can see.</div>
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It pops open like this.</div>
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My husband cut the hole out while I was at work. We sealed it with bitumen coated foam and black Sika seal. It stayed that way for MONTHS so we know it is well and truly watertight. A metal frame was welded up and went around this part to reinforce the roof. I stupidly forgot to take a photo. I hope the engineer can peek through the hole and see it.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ALbLNndxHt0/Vmu0gW3sXsI/AAAAAAAABiI/zox3C_MixwE/s1600/IMG_2769.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ALbLNndxHt0/Vmu0gW3sXsI/AAAAAAAABiI/zox3C_MixwE/s320/IMG_2769.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Here is the ceiling partly lined. We used the same insulation as in the walls. It works really well and is also a sound deadener. Pouring rain on the roof sounds amazing. The electrical cables are running in the roof in some spots, as are the cables for the speakers up the back. They are all in conduit so as not to rub on the steel frame while driving along (see on the left of the photo. This grey stuff is from Bunnings and the speaker conduit from Supercheap).</div>
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After the ceiling was all up, we then added some plastic surround to neaten up the edges (it is mostly covered by the white sunroof surround now).</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0T3X8vnggCI/Vmu0gVjFsZI/AAAAAAAABiI/gQra4ETrA28/s1600/IMG_3698.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0T3X8vnggCI/Vmu0gVjFsZI/AAAAAAAABiI/gQra4ETrA28/s320/IMG_3698.JPG" width="239" /></a></div>
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The whole ceiling in its shiny, white glory!</div>
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Shame about the building gear and cleaning stuff laying around!</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jnb_fyMZhtw/Vmu0gfQm7wI/AAAAAAAABiI/uA0FmSteRqk/s1600/IMG_3701.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jnb_fyMZhtw/Vmu0gfQm7wI/AAAAAAAABiI/uA0FmSteRqk/s320/IMG_3701.JPG" width="239" /></a></div>
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Closed sun shade.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-b7BpH-aWfvc/Vmu0gZVXo2I/AAAAAAAABiI/O0iH6mCQLoA/s1600/IMG_3700.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-b7BpH-aWfvc/Vmu0gZVXo2I/AAAAAAAABiI/O0iH6mCQLoA/s320/IMG_3700.JPG" width="239" /></a><br />
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Closed fly screen.</div>
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Opened hatch!</div>
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(Excuse the grubby fingerprints. I was too excited and took pictures before cleaning).</div>
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From the outside.</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15885210198538491361noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7000745913114663343.post-2095831375757044492015-05-10T01:38:00.001-07:002015-05-10T01:38:24.464-07:00Its alive, ITS ALIVE! Power is ON.Today is a good day.<br />
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We finally got the power connected.<br />
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We bought all of this stuff about a year and a half ago. It was from our local Jayco dealer and since then we have added lots of electrical goodies to our 'stash'. USB ports, ciga ports, etc, etc.<br />
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We've gradually been doing wiring and putting lights on as we go. We even installed the solar panels but they weren't connected to anything.<br />
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Remember this from WAAAAAY back? </div>
We managed to hide the cables as we went. The 25mm conduit and saddles are from Bunnings. Most of our electrical gear came from this guy who lives in our next biggest town but he has an eBay store <a href="http://stores.ebay.com.au/autoelecau?_trksid=p2047675.l2563">http://stores.ebay.com.au/autoelecau?_trksid=p2047675.l2563</a> We bought metres and metres of 6mm wire from him. Good quality and nice and thick.<br />
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But lets start from the top. We bought all of the gear from ARB and opted for good quality RedARC stuff. <a href="http://www.redarc.com.au/">http://www.redarc.com.au/</a><br />
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Our FIRST Shopping list looked like this:<br />
-2x 150W mono panels.<br />
-Alternator charger thingo and a relay switch so the solar shuts off and the alternator does the charging when in motion.<br />
-Solar regulator and thermometer to shut down if it gets too hot.<br />
-Solar display and data cable.<br />
-A fuse.<br />
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It cost a small fortune.<br />
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We have since added:<br />-One more solar panel.<br />
-2x 75AH Optima batteries 'Yellow Top' (smaller AH means faster charging and the AH works out to be okay for us... we hope) <a href="https://www.optima-batteries.com.au/">https://www.optima-batteries.com.au/</a><br />
-A Narva 8 switch and fuse panel.<br />
-A circuit breaker.<br />
-5 and 10 port bus bars (for actives and neutrals)<br />
-Heaps of various wiring, shrink wrap etc.<br />
-Battery mounting brackets.<br />
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More money gone.<br />
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Anyway, my husband is an ex-electrician so I was pretty confident that all would be well.<br />
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The panels went on with rivnuts, rubber, Sikaflex and rivnuts AGES ago. Wiring joins are tucked away neatly in junction boxes and wire is in conduit which is saddled to the roof. Pretty sure I blogged about it back then.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-e24xYmpNg38/UxFQmoRVN7I/AAAAAAAABDE/u2diHz6pcEk/s1600/IMG_1634.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-e24xYmpNg38/UxFQmoRVN7I/AAAAAAAABDE/u2diHz6pcEk/s320/IMG_1634.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Next... well, lets let the photos do the talking.</div>
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Inside wiring is mostly inside the top cupboards and 'capped' with these things. It basically means we can work on stuff without ripping walls off. This stuff is from Bunnings.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-scoPA-lLxvo/VU8PZiMQPCI/AAAAAAAABcQ/QEUEH56gVa4/s1600/IMG_2801.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-scoPA-lLxvo/VU8PZiMQPCI/AAAAAAAABcQ/QEUEH56gVa4/s320/IMG_2801.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Batteries have to be vented to the outside because they can produce hydrogen gas when charging. A few 5mm holes in the floor are fine according to the engineer. These batteries are good quality and are <i>almost</i> guaranteed not to do it. Best to be safe though! They also need to be locked down with a strong bracket (see the one on the right) and sealed so they won't leak to the inside of the caravan.</div>
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Don't ask me about wiring, I don't know. I would suggest getting wired in by an auto-elec if you don't know about this stuff. </div>
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Regulator on the right, alternator charger on the left (not wired in yet). There is a big fuse wired in somewhere and a temp monitor too. These are protective devices to save the equipment in extreme conditions or if there is a surge. </div>
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I may get a 240 charger at some stage and add a port to the outside... depending on if we find we need to or not. Also, I may get an inverter. At this stage, we are not planning to have one though.</div>
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Here is the remote solar monitor. You can also see the cords above the door, There ended up being more than this lot though!</div>
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Hidden by a padded head bumper thingo I made. The light under it runs on the bus' internal lighting system.</div>
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Spaghetti. This all comes into a pantry type cupboard behind my passenger seat. That circular thing on the right is a speaker. The square on the left is the monitor. The door has the switchboard set into it. </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wWwHntHVb3c/VU8QlWms2YI/AAAAAAAABc0/P1TPrPXn4Qk/s1600/IMG_2805.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="149" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wWwHntHVb3c/VU8QlWms2YI/AAAAAAAABc0/P1TPrPXn4Qk/s200/IMG_2805.JPG" width="200" /></a><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-B9AbVtPvcs0/VU8P57BvP0I/AAAAAAAABcY/MeILWmX3VRk/s1600/IMG_2804.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="149" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-B9AbVtPvcs0/VU8P57BvP0I/AAAAAAAABcY/MeILWmX3VRk/s200/IMG_2804.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
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Wiring in progress. You can see the bus bars and circuit breaker on the right hand side of the cabinet. The switch board also has a fuse for each switch. Don't forget to write everything down as you wire stuff in. I've made a wiring chart to save the frustration in later years if we need to work on the wiring again. I've laminated it and will stick it in the back of the cupboard.</div>
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As you can see, there is still space for other stuff to be added later. We are considering an outdoor ciga port for an additional fridge/freezer.</div>
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Somehow the spaghetti has been tamed!</div>
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Switches with the cover off, you can see the fuses. </div>
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Time to test it out!</div>
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The fridge is working. Awesome. </div>
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The outdoor light works!</div>
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And this one!</div>
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Bathroom is all good!</div>
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Lots of light for the kitchenette.</div>
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Bead head lights are good too!</div>
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Lets just switch them all on.</div>
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Glow in the dark. I'm pretty happy with that!</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15885210198538491361noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7000745913114663343.post-65084368047941588672015-04-05T22:46:00.001-07:002015-04-05T23:39:39.892-07:00KitchenetteHere is the tale of the kitchen.<br />
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Remember the fridge purchase from a few posts ago? We bought it from our local Jayco dealer. The price was close to online pricing and we liked the idea of being able to take it back to the dealer if it broke. We went for this model because reviews were good, it was a 12V with low draw, the size was the biggest we could fit in the gap in the kitchenette and it has a little freezer. It will also fit a litre of milk in the upright position. This is a must for use using UHT or if we can only get carton milk on the road.<br />
<a href="http://www.waeco.com/Australia/MS-7250-Caravan-Campertrailer-Motorhome-RV/PG-9667-Refrigerators/MD-116018-CoolMatic-CR-Series/SK-116048-CoolMatic-CR-110-CR-1110">See the fridge here.</a><br />
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We built the rest of the kitchenette around the fridge and gas install. We wanted to carry a small gas bottle but the box needed to store it ended up being much the same as a 9kg... so we have gone with that.<br />
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The only plumber with a 'ticket' to install gas in motor homes within 500kms turned out to be a nice bloke. He gave us some tips and instructions and I was able to send him a few pictures via email, to see if our ideas were able to be achieved. He even came down to see the bus and give our first consult free of charge! (He lives 110kms away. I guess that is ONE perk of living in a tourist town, he was able to have a 'working holiday').<br />
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Anyway, the box could be made of one inch thick 'form board' (Bunnings) which is plastic coated ply which can be used outdoors but it needed to be completely sealed and secured in a way which will withstand a massive jolt. Luckily our engineer has been training us up for securing everything well and we were easily able to bolt and lock it down with iron angles. LOADS of cutting to just the correct shape and it was in! About 3 tubes of Sikaflex later and we were ready for connection. We have made some vent holes under plumbers instruction and have had to add pipes. I suggest having a good talk to your own plumber about what will work for your install (so I won't go into too many details about ours).<br />
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We had to bolt in a 9kg bottle holder (just a cheapy galvinised one from eBay) and one of these access doors: <a href="http://caravansplus.com.au/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=14191">http://caravansplus.com.au/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=14191</a><br />
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I also grabbed a gas storage sticker off eBay and have affixed it to the door (this is a must have item in the gas guidelines).<br />
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Regulation gas box from the inside. You aren't allowed to be able to access the gas bottle from the inside of the bus.</div>
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Gaping hole on the outside.</div>
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As you can see above, the fridge doesn't come up past the window edge. I didn't want it to, as cleaning behind it would be difficult and I think it looks funny. I wanted to be able to open those windows up fully. The little stove/sink combo has a lift up lid which acts as a splashback/heat guard.</div>
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This picture shows how we have raised the floor inside the cupboards to match the step inside the bus, but the gas sits on the original bus floor. We insulated and covered in the walls where we could but the fridge needed a top and bottom vent to the outside. We bought stainless ones here: <a href="http://caravansplus.com.au/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=515">http://caravansplus.com.au/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=515</a></div>
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<span style="text-align: left;">The water pops out from the shower wall (all hidden in the vanity for access if anything stuffs up) and the power ran in conduit under the bus and up the wall. The stove has a 12V auto ignite and the fridge needs a dedicated wire.</span></div>
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The bench top is laminated pine panel, as are the doors. The frame is ply and various sizes of structural pine. These are glued and screwed and then bolted to the bus with M8s and 3mm steel brackets.</div>
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These don't get the varnish... just white gloss and the same standard door knobs we've used through the rest of the bus. The large door is actually a very small cupboard as the gas box almost fills the entire space under there.</div>
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Millions of coats of varnish.</div>
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Pull out drawer system from Bunnings (those pipes will be connected and saddled to the back of the cupboard out of the way later).</div>
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The finished kitchenette! The kick-board needs to be white. We will probably put another 2.5kg fire extinguisher (with hose and bracket mount) in beside the fridge, to the far left and we have a fire blanket to attach to the wall beside the stove (all those good safety things the engineer likes). We will probably put our CO2 and smoke alarm on the roof or wall but not too close to the kitchen.<br />
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The dinette table is the same shiny varnished pine and I just completed the cushion covers for the seat today. That will probably be in the next blog post! </div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15885210198538491361noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7000745913114663343.post-19200360385484362782015-04-01T20:57:00.001-07:002015-04-05T23:35:05.184-07:00Last bit of overhead storage DONE!This post is about the storage above the kitchenette.<br />
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These were a little different to the ones over the bed because the foundation structure was different. The steel came up higher on the side of the bus and there is now a bathroom wall to bolt things to. We did not need to make as heavy duty frame as the previous shelving required. It is, however, still bolted with 3mm steel angle, aluminium angle, and M8 or M10 bolts and rivnuts to the steel parts.<br />
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The wood used was the same Bunnings laminated pine (sold by the panel) and other pine lengths which we cut, routed with a 'bull nose', so I don't bang my head on a sharp corner. It is puttied, sanded and painted with gloss.<br />
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We used the same 'easy fit' hinges from Mitre 10 or Home hardware but we have hung them so they open fully and do not clip into themselves (which almost never happened properly due to the movement and weight of the door).<br />
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The latches have been purchased from eBay and are those used in caravans/motorhomes (see previous posts for the link). It is a requirement that "latches are such that they do not come open under the rigors of travel" according to our engineer checklist... so that is what we bought! They lock when the knob is pressed in. <br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NR7w-vuK0k0/VRy4FgE9P-I/AAAAAAAABW4/j75vCFjdZnw/s1600/IMG_2738.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NR7w-vuK0k0/VRy4FgE9P-I/AAAAAAAABW4/j75vCFjdZnw/s1600/IMG_2738.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
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Here you can see bolts, steel aluminum AND rivnuts used. The crack in the plastic moulding will be filled with... something... later. It is just cosmetic.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Sz_B1VYzGpo/VRy4HWG7MBI/AAAAAAAABXA/Hjl8a2KFXXI/s1600/IMG_2736.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Sz_B1VYzGpo/VRy4HWG7MBI/AAAAAAAABXA/Hjl8a2KFXXI/s1600/IMG_2736.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
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Wood edge finishes it off and ensures stray cans don't drop on our heads when we open the door.<br />
The insulation is the same as we have used throughout the bus. It was purchased from Bunnings and has a good sound AND heat rating. </div>
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We will line the roof with some shiny plastic covered ply stuff. We would have loved to use the same 'WallArt' as in the bathroom but it is expensive and very heavy.</div>
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We ran the cable for the light through the roof (in conduit), into the cupboard and capped it off with this thing to cover the connection and protect it from damage. All these little junction boxes, conduit, saddles etc are available from Bunnings. We got the wire online as it is specific for the job (I'll talk about it in a later post).</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZGLYbIo0tZo/VRy4ExDjE3I/AAAAAAAABWw/Brq81eX4DGI/s1600/IMG_2747.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZGLYbIo0tZo/VRy4ExDjE3I/AAAAAAAABWw/Brq81eX4DGI/s1600/IMG_2747.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
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Here's the hinge and how we have attached it in a different way. We could only get them in a brassy colour but you don't see them much from the outside so they don't clash with the brushed pewter/silver of the other fittings.</div>
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All done! </div>
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Well, except for the end bit on the cupboard on the right but we have to leave that bit off to finish the electrical stuff. </div>
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Here you can see some of the shiny lining panel (from Mitre 10) that we will continue to use when we line the roof.</div>
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On a side note: Look! The Rollaway shower screen/bathroom door from Northcoach RV can be seen and is in the closed position. We did need to cover it with frosted tint as the original door was very see through. On the right of the door we may or may not stick a full length mirror panel. We have not decided yet. <a href="http://www.northcoach.com.au/rollaway-shower-screen/">http://www.northcoach.com.au/rollaway-shower-screen/</a></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15885210198538491361noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7000745913114663343.post-35917298939805157812015-03-31T21:28:00.003-07:002015-03-31T21:28:50.549-07:00Side MuralMy old airbrush broke when I was doing a reading table for the local primary school.<br /><br />You can't get good $23 airbrushes nowadays!<br /><br />I splurged and replaced it with a $40 one.<br />
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The progress after day one. I rather like it black and white but I went ahead and did some colour anyway.<br />
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Here's the end result. It will go okay with the back and hopefully the other side... when I get around to doing it. Notice the spearhead on the dent to cover it up? The bus already had a couple of little bumps on it when we bought it. Nothing serious but they do tend to look obvious with the new bright paint job. I'm being rather strategic with the murals to mask imperfections.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15885210198538491361noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7000745913114663343.post-9553738675153081502015-03-31T18:02:00.000-07:002015-03-31T18:09:43.338-07:00A few bits and pieces... and unfinished business.Just thought I'd do a quick update on what I've bought lately and were from etc.<br />
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The fridge.<br />
We went for a Waeco 12/24/240V C1100 (110 litre) ordered from our local Jayco caravan place.<br />
The price was comparable to online and we liked the idea of being able to take it back to the place of purchase if something were to go wrong.<br />
We chose this one because of the low power draw on 12v and no need to have it on gas (which is a pain in the butt to certify etc).<br />
We got the biggest one which would fit in the space when the gas is installed and the duel cooktop is in. I didn't want the bench to come up too high over the bottom of the windows.<br />
It suits our decor too. Bonus!<br />
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I'll update you on the install when we blog about the kitchenette going in... which isn't too far off! We also got a table from Aldi (see in the background) and have modified it to suit our needs. </div>
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Water tanks.</div>
We were going to get some custom tanks made up to fit like Tetris under the bus but opted for some pre-fab ones from CaravansPlus (cheaper and easier to install). We will take the spare wheel from under the bus and pop it in the boot under the bed (with a cover) as there is plenty of room in there and it will distribute the weight of the water more evenly over the axles. Here is the link for the tank for the freshwater (127 litre): <a href="http://caravansplus.com.au/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1354">http://caravansplus.com.au/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1354</a><br />
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And the little greywater one: <a href="http://caravansplus.com.au/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1345">http://caravansplus.com.au/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1345</a>Which will sit under the shower, under the bus. </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-x1DYAHeNbPc/VRsxYmWftiI/AAAAAAAABTc/qn_x3jaXd1s/s1600/tank%2Band%2Btable%2Border.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-x1DYAHeNbPc/VRsxYmWftiI/AAAAAAAABTc/qn_x3jaXd1s/s1600/tank%2Band%2Btable%2Border.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></div>
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We also got a filler cap from Caravans plus (not pictured).</div>
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Table leg.</div>
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From Northcoach. <a href="http://www.northcoach.com.au/lagun-caravan-and-camper-table-frame-mechanism/">http://www.northcoach.com.au/lagun-caravan-and-camper-table-frame-mechanism/</a></div>
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I'll blog about the dinette in the next few days but to give you an idea why we opted to spend a few more $$$ and get this Lagun leg, the dinette seat is a bench style seat. </div>
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The table needed to be removable and very flexible in its positioning. </div>
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It needed to be adjustable in height and I really wanted to do a fold out so it would be small enough for a laptop or tablet (without getting in the way) or big enough for two people to eat their meal off if the weather outside was yuck.</div>
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You can also buy additional mounting plates and put them in other spots if you want to move the table but I don't think we will be doing that. </div>
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We will make the table from the same laminated wood that the bench top is made from (available at Bunnings by the sheet). It will be varnished and routed to match the bench in the kitchen too.</div>
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Gas bottle holder.</div>
From eBay. Just a regular 9kg one. More about that later.<br />
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Outside gas door.</div>
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From CaravansPlus: <a href="http://caravansplus.com.au/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=14192">http://caravansplus.com.au/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=14192</a></div>
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Fits a 9kg bottle through it. Lockable and fiberglass.</div>
We love CaravansPlus for our smaller accessories. They are fast and have reasonable shipping rates.<br />
Our door got damaged in transit and they replaced it!<br />
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I got a LPG storage sticker off eBay (required for approval by our gas man and our engineer man AND by law).<br />
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2.5kg Fire extinguisher.<br />
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I just bought this off eBay. <a href="http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/171412743380?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT">http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/171412743380?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT</a> (make sure you get the right coded one).</div>
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The engineer checklist said we needed one with a hose. We already have one of those little 1kg caravan ones set into the dinette by the door (bought with the carrier at the local Jayco dealer) but it is tiny and hasn't got the hose. Can't hurt to have two! It hasn't arrived yet but I contacted the seller and he said he would throw in a free fire blanket for our trouble. I already have a fire blanket for the bus so I guess we will have one for home now too.</div>
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Narva oval LED for the kitchenette.</div>
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These are cool. They have a touch sensitive on/dim/off switch and are so flat and sleek. We have a smaller round one over the dinette and a smaller one again in the bathroom. Requires a 10mm hole ONLY to install. Awesome.</div>
From a local shop.<br />
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Portable LED Light.</div>
Picked this one up from a local hardware shop.<br />
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Totally cool.</div>
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Solar, battery, USB charge hybrid.</div>
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Hmm... what else?</div>
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Emergency info for seatbelt.</div>
This is from the 'TwoThimbles' Facebook page <a href="https://www.facebook.com/twothimbles?fref=ts">https://www.facebook.com/twothimbles?fref=ts</a>. The ladies make them.<br />
Since the bus will only have my husband and I in it when traveling, it looked like a good thing to attach to the driver's side seatbelt in case of an emergency. Contact numbers and medical info such as allergies or medications go in it. The form that they included wasn't great but I will do up my own on the computer.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6ZCg-KRmYL0/VRsxYiH7Q4I/AAAAAAAABTg/TBmD02du5tc/s1600/medical%2Binfo%2Border.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6ZCg-KRmYL0/VRsxYiH7Q4I/AAAAAAAABTg/TBmD02du5tc/s1600/medical%2Binfo%2Border.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></div>
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Batteries.</div>
We have ordered two of the 12v 80A/H Optima ones from our local ARB store.<br />
<a href="http://www.optima-batteries.com.au/?gclid=Cj0KEQjwi-moBRDL4Omf9d_LndMBEiQAQtFf8-XfrnSuXCY9cb2niluTRd-uj2kXx2Z1m0GkjCwqcOoaAuwx8P8HAQ">http://www.optima-batteries.com.au/?gclid=Cj0KEQjwi-moBRDL4Omf9d_LndMBEiQAQtFf8-XfrnSuXCY9cb2niluTRd-uj2kXx2Z1m0GkjCwqcOoaAuwx8P8HAQ</a><br />
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The added bonus is that they are sealed... no need to vent the box they are in!</div>
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They were kind of pricey (once again!) for the A/H and I'm sure you could get cheaper, but they come with a great name, a good warranty and are almost guaranteed to do the trick.</div>
They seem rather small for our needs but the lower A/H means faster charging and with the good quality setup we bought, they should be perfect!<br />
The brand is also renowned for being able to be slightly 'abused' and can withstand it if I accidentally discharge them a bit more than the recommended 30% max.<br />
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Slide out wire shelving for kitchenette.</div>
We got these from Bunnings. Just measure up your hole and away you go.<br />
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There is only one cupboard requiring these, the other is shallower due to the gas box (perfect for glad wrap or cleaning products, I'm thinking!). The overhead cupboards will just have baskets from the $2 shop as they are short and shallow and the pantry will have regular shelving for the thermal cooker and plastic containers etc. These cupboards are all made from the same laminated pine sheets from Bunnings and held down with M8 bolts and 3mm steel 'L' pieces from Bunnings. </div>
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Don't forget that they need to have some kind of closing and locking system which will not open while traveling along (see below).</div>
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MORE cupboard knobs.</div>
We were very happy with the last lot we got from eBay from this seller: <a href="http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/321685779206?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT">http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/321685779206?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT</a><br />
So we bought all the kitchenette and pantry knobs from the same place. They are designed for caravans and motorhomes and will pass the engineer's check. <br />
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Flooring.</div>
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We are going with cork tiles. </div>
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Good for insulating sound/temperature, flexible, soft, lightweight easy to install/cut, won't show camp dirt too much AND they were on special at Bunnings ($15 a pack). The down side is that they dent easy (but I can't see myself walking around in heels too much in there) and they aren't as pretty as polished wood. Oh well... I am happy to compromise considering all of the pluses they offer.</div>
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In addition to all this shopping, we have been working away at:</div>
The dinette/table,<br />
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Pantry/electrical cupboard,</div>
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Overhead kitchen cupboards,</div>
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Kitchenette,</div>
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Gas Box and outside door,</div>
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Exterior mural (hmm... I might just blog about that next!).</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15885210198538491361noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7000745913114663343.post-82851742210150731912014-11-29T22:41:00.000-08:002014-11-29T22:41:39.087-08:00BathroomThe bathroom *SORTA* got finished today!<br /><br />You know I hate blogging unfinished projects, well, it hasn't been tidied up... and there is some silicone stuff to do... and the toilet isn't fully attached... but it looks the goods, so here we go!<br />
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I bought all of the stuff AGES ago from <a href="http://caravansplus.com.au/catalog/index.php">Caravans Plus </a> which is kinda my go-to store for things now (GREAT, fast service on all of my purchases).<br />
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I got a swivel loo, shower base (the smallest we could get because there is not a great deal of room in the bus), a corner sink with all fittings. The shower head doubles as the basin tap. It has a long, retractable hose.<br />
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After putting the wall between the bed and the bathroom, we leveled out the floor. It drops away dramatically and we didn't want water pooling. (sorry about the picture quality, it accidentally got compressed twice).<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-oJFuor0sQtI/VHqrwIxbYnI/AAAAAAAABSc/ovgJ2QZXFwA/s1600/cutting%2Baccess%2Bdoor.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-oJFuor0sQtI/VHqrwIxbYnI/AAAAAAAABSc/ovgJ2QZXFwA/s1600/cutting%2Baccess%2Bdoor.JPG" /></a></div>
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Next we put the base in after it was reinforced with Masonite, put the toilet in and cut the holes using the template that comes with the loo.</div>
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So damned scary.</div>
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Because we had to cut away some of the wall structure, we had to 'recreate' it and reinforce the wall of the bus again. This was done with steel and bolts. All welded to the right shape and attached. We painted it to reduce the risk of rust. We insulated just like all the other walls and the roof.</div>
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You can see I also had to cut some out of the shower tray for the toilet cassette, We will seal that up later.</div>
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Next we built the walls, pretty much the same as you'd do for your house, only with thinner bits of wood. It all had to be bolted in place and to the side/floor/roof of the bus. We've used M8 and M10 bolts for this and some steel 'L' brackets from Bunnings.</div>
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Half of one of the windows was to be changed into a wall. We had to be a bit creative with the framing there. The window is double tinted so you can't see anything on the outside. It just looks like all of the other windows, only, it has a wall in front of it on the inside!</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xjjKsqA-yJo/VHqrqJv-sFI/AAAAAAAABRQ/gO0R2y3f2RI/s1600/IMG_2312.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xjjKsqA-yJo/VHqrqJv-sFI/AAAAAAAABRQ/gO0R2y3f2RI/s1600/IMG_2312.JPG" height="320" width="239" /></a></div>
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Next was plumbing. The pipes which run through the bus walls have been shoved through conduit to protect them from rubbing. We opted for flexible stainless steel hose and fittings from Bunnings to connect the water to the solar hot water up on top (more about that later!) The fresh water hoses are also from Bunnings and are pressure rated but our Sureflo pumps aren't that strong.</div>
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The water comes through the walls, or from the roof in the case of hot water, and pop out the WallArt panel. We got our waterproof WallArt from Mitre 10. Make sure you buy the recommended adhesive and edging you require too! The plumbing will be hidden in the vanity cavity but can be accessed if there are any leaks.</div>
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Through the roof (no sunlight after two hoses being shoved in that hole and it being Sikaflexed up!)<br />
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We ran a 12V wire through the roof and have popped a little touch operated Narva LED in there for lighting.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WOZkD4okrXE/VHqrtkYqqCI/AAAAAAAABR0/zb96whv2z8M/s1600/IMG_2493.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WOZkD4okrXE/VHqrtkYqqCI/AAAAAAAABR0/zb96whv2z8M/s1600/IMG_2493.JPG" height="320" width="239" /></a></div>
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The outside panel is thin marine grade ply which has bee painted with gloss. We did the edges with plastic edging to cover joins.</div>
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We connected the bird's nest of pipes to the vanity and mixer. VOILA! (Ignore the building mess in the shower base, I haven't cleaned it out yet). See the shower tap? That pulls out and hooks onto a holder on the wall for use as a shower.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3SEFXeMLkas/VHqruwvIhSI/AAAAAAAABSI/VP4GtxxWuzA/s1600/IMG_2536.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3SEFXeMLkas/VHqruwvIhSI/AAAAAAAABSI/VP4GtxxWuzA/s1600/IMG_2536.JPG" height="320" width="239" /></a></div>
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Install toilet and it looks FABULOUS! </div>
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We are yet to silicone around everything and seal that hole at the bottom of the toilet. I'll blog about the drainage when we do water tanks as it will go to a grey water tank.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-X4yhLxHWYoU/VHqrwQjgOwI/AAAAAAAABSg/2gpLZeLnBGc/s1600/IMG_2541.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-X4yhLxHWYoU/VHqrwQjgOwI/AAAAAAAABSg/2gpLZeLnBGc/s1600/IMG_2541.JPG" height="320" width="239" /></a></div>
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Outside flush filler and cassette access door look pretty spiffy too!</div>
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We have purchased a 'Rollaway' door from <a href="http://www.northcoach.com.au/products/Rollaway-Shower-Screen.html">Northcoach</a>. The advantages of this are: Plastic, we don't need to worry about securing a glass door or engineer rating. It is lightweight. We can fit is easily ourselves. Price. Unfortunately I don't have pictures of it in the closed position. Look for those in later posts!</div>
<br /><br /><br /><br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15885210198538491361noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7000745913114663343.post-36532065958307622482014-04-20T19:53:00.001-07:002014-04-20T19:53:28.668-07:00ZZzz... WAKE UP! The Bed is Done!Again, two blog posts in one day!<br />
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Remember this?<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YWD8Xeq31NA/UzejaldU-vI/AAAAAAAABG0/DSpmN8Ej_xU/s1600/IMG_1736.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YWD8Xeq31NA/UzejaldU-vI/AAAAAAAABG0/DSpmN8Ej_xU/s1600/IMG_1736.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
This is the beginnings of our bed. We opted for a queen sized bed. A bit heavier and space wasting than a double but really, what do you do most of inside your motorhome? Sleep of course! You might as well be nice and comfy, right? <br /><br />We are hoping to do most of our cooking/camp living outside and relax under the awning so it was important to us to have a comfy queen bed. We sacrificed some bathroom and kitchen space to put it in. We measured the brand new queen mattress in my step-son's room and planned around those dimensions. I don't like seeing doonas and pillows above the window of motorhomes so hubby even accounted for the depth of the mattress just for me!<br />
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To begin with, hubby used some MDF to make those side cupboards (see previous post) and the bedhead. The frame is bolted to the floor and walls with rivnuts, 3mm steel 'L' shaped angles and M8 bolts. <br />Next a piece of 3mm steel tubing (rectangular, 50mmx25mm) was attached to run down the centre and support the weight of us, the mattress and bed frame.<br />
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Using 3mm steel box, he made the bed frame in 2 parts. He has also welded some 'platforms' for the hinges (see at the top of the frame?) Half of the bed will be bolted down. This end can be accessed from the boot. Half will lift on struts. The photo above is after painting.</div>
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Next he put them in the hole, bolted the boot end to the frame and welded the hinges on (again, 3mm steel ones from Mitre10).</div>
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The slats are pine and have been routed so the edges don't dig and rub into the mattress. The handle is brushed metal (Bunnings). We tried to select a shape which wouldn't snag on clothing or bedding, in that position.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XAdkI24snF8/U1R7hKFiISI/AAAAAAAABNE/igowZqeIfjw/s1600/IMG_1854.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XAdkI24snF8/U1R7hKFiISI/AAAAAAAABNE/igowZqeIfjw/s1600/IMG_1854.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
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We bought two of these struts from the <a href="http://caravansplus.com.au/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=447">CaravansPlus website</a> (click for link) and installed them using the directions on the website and four of these little brackets: <a href="http://caravansplus.com.au/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=9130">http://caravansplus.com.au/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=9130</a> </div>
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They seem excessively powerful when just on the empty bed frame! The struts are advertised especially for beds in vans so we took their word for it and bought them anyway.</div>
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Luckily we were able to get the exact same mattress as the one we measured earlier. It was heavily discounted, being a slightly older model but at $400 and super comfy, I'm not complaining about having last season's mattress! Thank goodness for slow sales at rural furniture stores!</div>
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We squeezed the mattress through the door and got quite a fright when we wangled it almost into position... it seemed about 20cm too big! Thankfully it was just skewed and with a bit of a bump, it slid perfectly into place.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-IaXq2g-ABEU/U1R8FPXDiVI/AAAAAAAABNU/mOdkqZssMn4/s1600/IMG_1874.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-IaXq2g-ABEU/U1R8FPXDiVI/AAAAAAAABNU/mOdkqZssMn4/s1600/IMG_1874.JPG" height="320" width="239" /></a></div>
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The struts work perfectly, even with the heavy mattress on top.</div>
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And that's the end of the story.</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15885210198538491361noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7000745913114663343.post-3612577402060559292014-04-20T19:18:00.001-07:002014-04-20T19:22:16.901-07:00Bedhead CupboardsWe wanted to add a couple of cupboards on the back bedhead of the bus for a couple of reasons.<br />
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I wanted to be able to see out of the back window and adding the cupboards squared up the gap so a blind will fit in there more easily. It also means the reversing camera can be installed inside the bus, out of the weather and hidden away. Hubby wanted to close in the back window so the whole back would be storage. I guess this is a little compromise.<br />
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The bedhead space is handy for charging gadgets using a solar cell or the USB port we have installed. You can also toss a book up there when you're done reading and it is time for sleep... not to mention the remote control for the TV!<br />
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Here's how we did it.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TDVWrj_nfx4/U1R859WQpCI/AAAAAAAABOI/d6FYk3zPgo4/s1600/IMG_1743.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TDVWrj_nfx4/U1R859WQpCI/AAAAAAAABOI/d6FYk3zPgo4/s1600/IMG_1743.JPG" height="320" width="239" /></a></div>
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Tint the window behind it nice and black so that when you're looking from the back of the bus, you don't see screws etc on the back of the cupboard (we used the same tint as for the rest of the windows... just more layers!) </div>
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As you can see, the cupboards are made from laminated pine from Bunnings. Lighter than MDF and easy to work with. </div>
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Cut, screw, putty, paint is basically how it works with these cupboards! There was a bit of messing about with cardboard templates and a jigsaw, to get the right curves. The back of the cupboards is the same lining as the walls. Plastic coated thin ply from Mitre10.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cl-qwWSuXSs/U1R8zwCO8zI/AAAAAAAABOA/Zftxn_xYCZs/s1600/IMG_1741.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cl-qwWSuXSs/U1R8zwCO8zI/AAAAAAAABOA/Zftxn_xYCZs/s1600/IMG_1741.JPG" height="320" width="239" /></a></div>
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This cupboard hides the electrical cable for the USB port and the reversing camera cables. It is a good idea to plan out the electrical parts early, so you can hide as much as possible as you go. That conduit and the saddles are from Bunnings too. Cheap and easy. I believe it is the 20mm conduit.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-I_yDTidaPOw/U1R7G8HEgQI/AAAAAAAABM0/woBs9tcwlx0/s1600/IMG_1836.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-I_yDTidaPOw/U1R7G8HEgQI/AAAAAAAABM0/woBs9tcwlx0/s1600/IMG_1836.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
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Make some doors, attach matching locks (see the blog post about the top cupboards for eBay link) and tidy it all up with some timber edging. </div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15885210198538491361noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7000745913114663343.post-77337332055617851132014-04-11T18:13:00.000-07:002014-04-12T16:36:08.993-07:00NEW PAGE! Thermal Cooker Recipes.You may or may not have noticed the new tab at the top of each blog post which says 'Thermal Cooker Recipes'.<br />
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A couple of months after buying the bus, I discovered thermal cooking. It seemed like a good idea so, unwilling to spend the big bucks on a Dream Pot, Shuttle Chef or Eco Pot, I went ahead and bought a cheaper Primus Brand 'Campfire' thermal cooker for $150 at Aussie disposals. It comes with a bag, smaller inner pot and trivet. I also bought the optional mess tin for cooking cakes and bread (I haven't tried it yet).<br />
<a href="http://www.aussiedisposals.com.au/campfire-7lt-travel-cooker">Click here for their online store: http://www.aussiedisposals.com.au/campfire-7lt-travel-cooker</a><br />
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<a href="http://www.aussiedisposals.com.au/media/catalog/product/cache/1/thumbnail/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/c/a/campfire-thermal-cooker.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://www.aussiedisposals.com.au/media/catalog/product/cache/1/thumbnail/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/c/a/campfire-thermal-cooker.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></div>
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Source: Aussie Disposals website.</div>
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My friends and family own the 'name brand' pots and they work really, really well. I'm not showing a preference for any of the brands, but MY pot is excellent. I love it.</div>
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One thing I did do was buy the books from Dream Pot as the instruction manual I got with mine only had about three recipes in it. The extra books were a good investment for a beginner.<br />
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The other good resources I found were:</div>
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Mr D's Thermal Cooking <a href="http://www.thethermalcook.com/category/all-recipes">http://www.thethermalcook.com/category/all-recipes</a> </div>
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Eco Pot (only a few recipes here) <a href="http://www.ecopot.com.au/Contents/Page/Recipes">http://www.ecopot.com.au/Contents/Page/Recipes</a> </div>
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Shuttle Chef (apparently they also have a book but I haven't bought it) <a href="http://www.thermalcookware.com/main.php?mod=Dynamic&id=23">http://www.thermalcookware.com/main.php?mod=Dynamic&id=23</a></div>
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and</div>
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Pinterest <a href="http://www.pinterest.com/">http://www.pinterest.com/</a></div>
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Pinterest isn't just about thermal cooking but people have 'pinned' some of their favourite recipes on there and if you do a search, you'll find them. Also, search for 'slow cooker' or 'crock pot' or even 'dutch oven' recipes because just about anything you can cook in one of those, can be cooked in the thermal cooker.</div>
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Of course, the best way to get to know the cooker and what it can do is to EXPERIMENT!</div>
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"What does this have to do with buses or motorhoming?" You ask. <br />
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Well, they use very little energy. <br />
For a fall-off-the-bone stew, you will use about 20-30 mins of cooking energy. For rice: 2 mins cooking time! This is a great way to save energy on the road. <br />
Although we will have a kitchenette in the bus, we are planning to cook most meals on the camp fire or on a little butane stove outside. This cooker saves lots of energy.<br />
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It is a safe and easy way to cook while traveling. <br />
Put the meal on at 8am when you're packing up to go to the next campground. Pull up at lunchtime and have some of the meal at a park or something (if you'd like to). Keep driving OR enjoy some sight seeing for the day and by dinnertime, when you're tired out and just finished setting up camp, dinner will still be warm (note- if you're frightened of 'bugs' these cookers are safe for around 8 hours, after that, they recommend some reheating, which is no drama, usually only takes a few minutes).<br />
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One last reason I REALLY wanted one was because I can prepare most meals at home and pop everything into a large Ziploc bag and freeze them flat. Then, when we go camping, just grab the top one out of the bus fridge or Esky and cook it up! Having frozen meals in the fridge will save on fridge energy, they will defrost slowly and safely and will take up less space all chopped up and flat, also, I won't be spending valuable relaxing time doing food prep. I'm considering buying a vac sealer... but we will have to see about that!<br />
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Have I convinced you yet?</div>
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Back to the original reason for this blog post...</div>
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If you look at the top of the page, I have added a tab labeled 'Thermal Cooker Recipes'. As I experiment, I'll add my 'hits and misses' recipes there, so you can use them too!</div>
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Feel free to message me or comment on here if you have any recipes or suggestions that I can add.<br />
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Happy cooking!</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15885210198538491361noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7000745913114663343.post-6439945081771121592014-04-08T22:17:00.002-07:002014-04-08T22:17:52.516-07:00Painting for the back of the busHubby convinced me that I should do a mural type picture for the back of the bus.<br />
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So, a while back, we tootled off to Supercheap Auto and bought a $30 airbrush.<br />
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I had a couple of practises and put it away, thinking hubby had forgotten about the whole thing.<br />
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Yesterday he said "You know, if you airbrush the back of the bus, I can put all of the lights and handle back on it."<br />
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So I did it.<br />
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It is inspired by a picture I found on the internet but I can not find the source so I can give him creative credit (so credit to you if you ever see this Mr Artist!)<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JTYyI7GQKGQ/U0TWCWBYW5I/AAAAAAAABIs/iNcc_Pnkxg0/s1600/back+mural.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JTYyI7GQKGQ/U0TWCWBYW5I/AAAAAAAABIs/iNcc_Pnkxg0/s1600/back+mural.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></div>
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This is what I did yesterday. I kinda liked it black and white, but hubby wanted colour.</div>
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Here it is, all colourful. </div>
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If you ever get the chance to have a go at this sort of thing, do it. It is pretty fun!</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15885210198538491361noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7000745913114663343.post-82139889396715966582014-04-04T20:17:00.001-07:002014-04-04T20:17:41.216-07:00Quickie post- Reversing CameraThe power went off the morning so we couldn't get into doing the rest of the bed storage. Instead, we installed the reversing camera.<br />
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When we first got the bus, one of the first things I bought was a new touchscreen stereo/GPS/DVD thingy for the hole in the dash where they used to have a cassette player and a radio. It came with a reversing camera.<br />
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The whole unit was about $300 from eBay. It is a generic brand (I can't even add a link to the auction because it was soooo long ago!)<br />
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Anyway, now that we have installed the bedhead, we were able to put in the camera!<br />
We had to put the old brake light back in and luckily for us, it had a little stand from when it popped up from behind the back seat, when the bus was still a school bus. The little weeny camera fits perfectly under it, so you don't even know it is there.<br />
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Now for the pictures:<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1lLGuPyxvdQ/Uz9xkchA4NI/AAAAAAAABHs/Axrtj0-34J8/s1600/IMG_1748.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1lLGuPyxvdQ/Uz9xkchA4NI/AAAAAAAABHs/Axrtj0-34J8/s1600/IMG_1748.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
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Teeny-weeny thing it is!</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LfWovDbox7s/Uz9xkgcwVOI/AAAAAAAABHw/askZo5UZ9O8/s1600/IMG_1749.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LfWovDbox7s/Uz9xkgcwVOI/AAAAAAAABHw/askZo5UZ9O8/s1600/IMG_1749.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
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Connects with regular AV plugs (supplied with the unit). We have tucked them in behind the bedhead and will cover the top of it with grey/black carpet which matches the boot.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ofL9UuTWKzs/Uz9xj8hAgcI/AAAAAAAABHk/-KgMhdZvlhc/s1600/IMG_1746.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ofL9UuTWKzs/Uz9xj8hAgcI/AAAAAAAABHk/-KgMhdZvlhc/s1600/IMG_1746.JPG" height="320" width="239" /></a></div>
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Middle of the back window, lines up with the USB socket we have installed on the bedhead too! </div>
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(Note: The USB socket has nothing to do with the reversing camera, that is there for charging gadgets when we are using the bus).</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-V2A81Ju752U/Uz9xljOoYsI/AAAAAAAABH4/Qcn3EGg6Hng/s1600/IMG_1750.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-V2A81Ju752U/Uz9xljOoYsI/AAAAAAAABH4/Qcn3EGg6Hng/s1600/IMG_1750.JPG" height="320" width="239" /></a><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XJ2_zydwYxc/Uz9xmbZpilI/AAAAAAAABIA/5NNrDIlcwLU/s1600/IMG_1751.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XJ2_zydwYxc/Uz9xmbZpilI/AAAAAAAABIA/5NNrDIlcwLU/s1600/IMG_1751.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
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Install the brake light. Reversing camera is invisible. You can't even see it from the outside because of the tinted window... unless you REALLY look for it.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PULU_gprIcY/Uz9xnG-1EVI/AAAAAAAABII/tWIgNansli0/s1600/IMG_1752.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PULU_gprIcY/Uz9xnG-1EVI/AAAAAAAABII/tWIgNansli0/s1600/IMG_1752.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
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It works!</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15885210198538491361noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7000745913114663343.post-81476282941506715352014-03-29T22:13:00.002-07:002014-03-29T22:13:58.229-07:00Bedside StorageWe are on a roll with the storage!<br />
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This post is about the bedside storage cabinets for the bus.<br />
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First thing to do was to insulate the walls and line the sections with plastic coated paneling. Then we attached the 'brackets' for the cupboards to the side of the bus. In this case, it was a length of pine. The legs have been bolted to the floor using 'L' brackets. We also made a bedhead out of MDF and painted it up. As you can see, this was some time ago as the picture shows untinted windows! The bedhead will have the USB ports for gadgets, reversing camera mounted and the rear brake light on it. There will also be a little more storage on it... but more about that later!<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-reZCKPshq4k/UzejYt0v6iI/AAAAAAAABGk/25uEliXwhfk/s1600/IMG_1051.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-reZCKPshq4k/UzejYt0v6iI/AAAAAAAABGk/25uEliXwhfk/s1600/IMG_1051.JPG" height="320" width="239" /></a></div>
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Next we made the boxes from MDF and pine.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--sFfdaUq5Rk/UzejXhLqdJI/AAAAAAAABGc/fq_6KuZ9EsQ/s1600/IMG_0183.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--sFfdaUq5Rk/UzejXhLqdJI/AAAAAAAABGc/fq_6KuZ9EsQ/s1600/IMG_0183.JPG" height="320" width="239" /></a></div>
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Attached them with bolts to the brackets. Ignore the panel at the front. I think we were testing what it might look like with the boor of the bed covered in.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IWot5RcW3Vg/UzejYk6Cu1I/AAAAAAAABGg/rYnXg2c1kRc/s1600/IMG_0187.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IWot5RcW3Vg/UzejYk6Cu1I/AAAAAAAABGg/rYnXg2c1kRc/s1600/IMG_0187.JPG" height="320" width="239" /></a></div>
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Next we routed, painted and attached the cupboard lids. They have tension hinges so they don't just pop open when we go over a bump and they won't fall on your fingers when they are open. The handles are little ring pull ones in brushed nikel to match the top cupboards. They fold down flush so we won't get anything snagged on them.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-k4fHXIXAd3I/UzejbHD2EuI/AAAAAAAABG8/NpAWKVPEjx0/s1600/IMG_1737.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-k4fHXIXAd3I/UzejbHD2EuI/AAAAAAAABG8/NpAWKVPEjx0/s1600/IMG_1737.JPG" height="320" width="239" /></a></div>
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The cupboards have been divided into sections using the same lining as on the walls.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XtZrfLmjnlU/UzejZcRf9PI/AAAAAAAABGs/awj0-_zzsjg/s1600/IMG_1732.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XtZrfLmjnlU/UzejZcRf9PI/AAAAAAAABGs/awj0-_zzsjg/s1600/IMG_1732.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
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All done!</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YWD8Xeq31NA/UzejaldU-vI/AAAAAAAABG0/DSpmN8Ej_xU/s1600/IMG_1736.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YWD8Xeq31NA/UzejaldU-vI/AAAAAAAABG0/DSpmN8Ej_xU/s1600/IMG_1736.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
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And a comparison with the top cupboards. You can see that we have started some wiring and lighting... but as usual... more on that later!</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15885210198538491361noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7000745913114663343.post-4301589781926478302014-03-27T00:41:00.000-07:002014-03-27T00:41:18.173-07:00Top storage cupboardsThis post feels like it has been a VERY long time coming.<div>
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Remember these?</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TJzkVul7W1E/UzPMcWh5RaI/AAAAAAAABEo/-X7x402qZ24/s1600/IMG_1030.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TJzkVul7W1E/UzPMcWh5RaI/AAAAAAAABEo/-X7x402qZ24/s1600/IMG_1030.JPG" height="320" width="239" /></a></div>
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These are the top lining panels for the bent bits above the windows. I salvaged them from the strip-out, to use around the insides of the cupboards. A bit of paint and some reinforcing behind those cracked parts and they look great.</div>
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Anyway, back to the post about these top storage cupboards...</div>
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We thought long and hard about the best stuff to use when building these cupboards. Finally we settled on 3mm steel angle. Cheap, paints well, won't cause electrolysis when attached to the steel frame and it is very strong. The engineer stipulated that all steel structural stuff needed to be at least 3mm so this ticks that box.</div>
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Once again, the rivnutter came in VERY handy. </div>
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First we insulated the roof and reattached the lining. The insulation has heat AND sound rating which should be good for road noise.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ihvPADklrYM/UzPMb1FH0OI/AAAAAAAABE4/q_-v7IoDDVA/s1600/IMG_1673.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ihvPADklrYM/UzPMb1FH0OI/AAAAAAAABE4/q_-v7IoDDVA/s1600/IMG_1673.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
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See the rivnuts for the frame? The rivnuts to attach the steel frame to the bus are M8 but the ones on the frame, which the timber lining will be attached to, are M6.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9mt3jW1Gtto/UzPMb_nmqQI/AAAAAAAABEk/G4kic-ZXCi8/s1600/IMG_1682.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9mt3jW1Gtto/UzPMb_nmqQI/AAAAAAAABEk/G4kic-ZXCi8/s1600/IMG_1682.JPG" height="320" width="239" /></a></div>
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Frame is bolted on. At this point it looked very weird and wonky but it WAS level... just an optical illusion when compared to the bendy bus.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qv7HCon4gK0/UzPMeL-JNkI/AAAAAAAABE8/XP_z6f_2QxA/s1600/IMG_1693.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qv7HCon4gK0/UzPMeL-JNkI/AAAAAAAABE8/XP_z6f_2QxA/s1600/IMG_1693.JPG" height="320" width="239" /></a></div>
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Other side and big back cupboard too.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Vu3YpBUMDNE/UzPMdKb6HjI/AAAAAAAABEw/czczOnQhICI/s1600/IMG_1684.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Vu3YpBUMDNE/UzPMdKb6HjI/AAAAAAAABEw/czczOnQhICI/s1600/IMG_1684.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
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We had to see if the melamine dinner set that we got off my family for Christmas would fit in there!</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xQYV1bKDSnQ/UzPMe32KGsI/AAAAAAAABFE/b_npx5fhblQ/s1600/IMG_1704.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xQYV1bKDSnQ/UzPMe32KGsI/AAAAAAAABFE/b_npx5fhblQ/s1600/IMG_1704.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
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Timber covers the frame (pine). Hubby routed it beautifully and puttied the bolt holes where it is bolted onto the steel. The engineer is very particular about the fact that it should be secured in this way.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YgjFqwqCAL4/UzPMfkbtdXI/AAAAAAAABFM/u_p7iGD1XmY/s1600/IMG_1706.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YgjFqwqCAL4/UzPMfkbtdXI/AAAAAAAABFM/u_p7iGD1XmY/s1600/IMG_1706.JPG" height="320" width="239" /></a></div>
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Here you can see the bigger end cupboard lining going on. It is laminated pine from Bunnings. The other panel (missing in the photo) has the bus speakers built in. </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-w3y5T6nQZnM/UzPMgBGBMkI/AAAAAAAABFo/5QWZBx9STxY/s1600/IMG_1714.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-w3y5T6nQZnM/UzPMgBGBMkI/AAAAAAAABFo/5QWZBx9STxY/s1600/IMG_1714.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
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Partially painted with the final colour and looking pretty good!</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mI_pREpSCFQ/UzPMgrxBw7I/AAAAAAAABFY/qcdi9PTE65w/s1600/IMG_1728.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mI_pREpSCFQ/UzPMgrxBw7I/AAAAAAAABFY/qcdi9PTE65w/s1600/IMG_1728.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
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COMPLETED with hinges, doors and special motorhome latches. They are the 'small' size in brushed nickel finish. The knobs pop out when you press them. In this pushed in position, they are locked and will not come open. Whe they are popped out, they clip open like a regular kitchen cupboard latch. I got them for a good price on eBay (click here to see eBay listing: <a href="http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/321205191473?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649">http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/321205191473?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649</a> )</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DTWF4GrML4M/UzPMi41YdXI/AAAAAAAABF0/c0wpKJPpBtk/s1600/IMG_1731.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DTWF4GrML4M/UzPMi41YdXI/AAAAAAAABF0/c0wpKJPpBtk/s1600/IMG_1731.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
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Popped out, ready to open.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NW5OlFcT2-E/UzPMhRuH0pI/AAAAAAAABFg/9zQa4CgkCCI/s1600/IMG_1729.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NW5OlFcT2-E/UzPMhRuH0pI/AAAAAAAABFg/9zQa4CgkCCI/s1600/IMG_1729.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
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Open. The hinges are just 'easy-fit' ones from Bunnings.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VJ_WzqQ3dKY/UzPMiZyhzeI/AAAAAAAABFw/R6AmwEEeUjA/s1600/IMG_1730.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VJ_WzqQ3dKY/UzPMiZyhzeI/AAAAAAAABFw/R6AmwEEeUjA/s1600/IMG_1730.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
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The deeper back cupboard with speaker installed.</div>
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You can't imagine how happy I am! Having these installed means that we can work on the bed/boot with struts and cute side cupboards...</div>
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...but more about that later!</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15885210198538491361noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7000745913114663343.post-60774668516073485222014-03-01T21:58:00.002-08:002014-03-01T21:58:22.558-08:00Last of the tintThe last few bits of tint went in today.<br />
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I'm impressed by the white frost tint on the bathroom window (see previous posts for links to the supplier's eBay store).<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-unSc55ZQfyE/UxLGzCyMoQI/AAAAAAAABDk/52nQxRvlbQE/s1600/IMG_1703.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-unSc55ZQfyE/UxLGzCyMoQI/AAAAAAAABDk/52nQxRvlbQE/s1600/IMG_1703.JPG" height="320" width="239" /></a></div>
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Nice and frosty! Helloooo, can you see me? This is the view from the inside.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dFeP4ko873E/UxLG1AHUdXI/AAAAAAAABDs/PKYgn_JTeFs/s1600/IMG_1705.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dFeP4ko873E/UxLG1AHUdXI/AAAAAAAABDs/PKYgn_JTeFs/s1600/IMG_1705.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
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From the outside. The big test will be when it is dark outside and we turn the light on inside.</div>
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We decided to only go with the one window and double dark tint the other where the wall will intersect it. When it is double tinted, you can barely see through and it will keep the bus looking a bit more uniform having them all dark except one.</div>
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The window is so bright, I'm seriously considering doing away with the glass frosted door that I had planned for the bathroom and building one from ply and Aquapanel instead. </div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15885210198538491361noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7000745913114663343.post-58584172351111600332014-02-28T19:22:00.001-08:002014-02-28T19:22:09.809-08:00A little update of the work in progress.Just thought I'd pop in and give a little update about what we have been working on.<br />
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The school year has resumed so I have very little time but hubby has a couple of hours during the day to kill while he waits for his shifts (morning and afternoon). On the weekends we usually take the hour and a half drive to the nearest bigger town to get things we need for the bus, this takes up a good part of Saturday and I do school work on Sunday. That doesn't leave a lot of time but a few things are still happening.<br />
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1) The last of the tint arrived.<br />
A sheet of white frost for the bathroom and the larger sheet of road-legal tint for the odd sized driving window. We also found out that you can add layers of tint over others, so we have decided to 'black out' the windows where the pantry will be, one window where the wall for the bathroom doesn't quite line up and parts of the rear window where cupboards will be fitted. This way we know the tint is UV protected and it will not look as odd as taking the window out and filling it with a panel.<br />
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2) Hubby has started making the storage cabinets which go above the windows, almost the whole way around the interior of the bus.<br />
He is using steel angle, welding a frame, painting and rivnutting it to the frame of the bus (that rivut tool has been a godsend!) We bought the lining for the bus roof today so he can put in the back cabinet. I can't remember the name but it is thin ply with acrylic sheeting over it, similar to the Laminex product Aquapanel but far cheaper. We will use actual Aquapanel for the bathroom as it is water resistant but for the bus roof, this shiny white lining will be fabulous. We also got the pop-out cabinet locks off eBay this week (I will add a link when I do a full write up about the cupboards).<br />
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3) The bathroom goodies arrived in the mail too!<br />
I did a big order from 'Caravans Plus' in the ACT (I will add a link and more info later when I do a post about the bathroom) and it arrived within three days. I ordered the shower/bathroom base, cassette toilet, basin, mixer, retractable shower tap and drainage bits (plugs etc).<br />
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4) We attached the solar panels to the roof.<br />
We stupidly bought some of those plastic molded brackets to attach the panels but they didn't have enough clearance for air flow under the panels. An expensive mistake. Eventually we just bought some 3mm steel angle brackets, cut rubber stoppers so they didn't wear into the roof steel as we drove along, used plenty of Sikaflex and rivnutted them to the roof. We think we can fit one more panel on the roof so we will probably do that before we finish that part of the roof interior. Hubby has done a little work with wiring and junction boxes to neaten things up... but more on that later.<br />
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The Sikaflex and rubber also stops the steel from reacting with the panels aluminium frame and rusting.</div>
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Bolted the the raised part of the roof, as you would in a regular house, to minimise the risk of leak.</div>
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After the tint and cabinets, I think we will be making the base for the bed. The frame and some side storage is already there but we have to make the slatted part which the mattress sits on. The plan is to make it in two parts, from steel box tubing and putting struts under so the storage under it can easily be accessed.<br />
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I'd better get out there now and give him a hand!Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15885210198538491361noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7000745913114663343.post-76784821872337213392014-01-25T20:03:00.005-08:002014-01-25T20:03:58.877-08:00$$$ Credit $$$Just had to add something pretty awesome.<br />
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Today I got an email. It was an email from a business... but the best type. It was from Supercheap Auto!<br />
(Note: We have no affiliation with ANY stores mentioned in this blog, we just want to help you guys save some cash on your own motorhomes).<br />
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One thing we did when we first got the bus was buy a card to join the Supercheap Auto Club. The initial cost was $5 and we took it home and signed up online using the details on the card. Initially we bought it to take advantage of the savings and discounts which were only offered to members, as we knew we would be spending a bit on bus goodies as we went.<br />
You simply scan the card with each purchase and you might luck out on a discount here and there.<br />
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BUT<br />
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The very best thing about the card is the credit system. If you've bought something at the store and it goes on sale at a cheaper price (within a certain period), you get the actual $ credits added to your card! You need to spend it within 30 days or something like that, but it never lasts that long on our card!<br />
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Today is Australia day and to celebrate, Supercheap offered 20% off, store wide. My email tells me I have $70 to spend... the card just paid for itself heaps of times over.<br />
(If you're wondering what we bought previously to earn this much credit, I think it was some extra paint or thinners or maybe polishing gear for the compressor). <br />
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15885210198538491361noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7000745913114663343.post-162171634711839022014-01-25T00:13:00.001-08:002014-01-25T01:19:41.862-08:00AwningTwo blog posts in one day! Excellent.<br />
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We planned to compound the paint and polish the bus but didn't end up doing that.<br />
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Instead we attached the awning.<br />
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The first step was to find some 3mm thick metal plates to attach the awning to, behind the wall and roof panels. The awning instructions and websites recommend using ply wood but the engineer wanted 3mm, painted steel which had at least 20mm around the awning bolts AND adhered to the panel with Sikaflex flexible adhesive. Apparently awnings blow off sometimes... but this one won't!<br />
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We found these at Bunnings:<br />
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It has the awning bracket sitting on it and a ruler, to show the engineer. This is what is called a 'fishplate' used for joining two pieces of framing for those steel framed houses. It will do the trick I hope!<br />
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Here it is painted, Sikaflexed and with the high tensile bolts through it. If you look to the right of the picture, you can see the hole and rivnut we added to hold on the sail channel (that is the groove thing that you thread the awning onto). The rivnut gun was about $100 on eBay and it sets special little bolts into the panels, kinda like a rivet, but with a thread inside it. Here is the link to the rivnut gun: <a href="http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/261362687160?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649">http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/261362687160?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649</a><br />
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The bottom awning bracket. This also has a fishplate behind it.<br />
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Top bracket and a fly inspecting our handiwork.<br />
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A bit hard to see but this is the sailrail attached. It is bolted and rivnutted and also has some self tapping screws for extra stability.<br />
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Add a little silicone based lube along the sailrail so the awning slides through.<br />
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The finished product. I'm so, so happy! Doesn't look much like a school bus now!<br />
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Edited to add: I'm not sure if I said in an earlier post or not but the awning is a Carefree brand manual awning with short, curved hardware (to compensate for the curve in the bus and the gutter channel which runs along the top of the windows). It is 14' long and the colour is 'Silver Fade'. If you order one of these awnings, be sure to order the hardware and the sail rail too, as they are sold separately. The awning fabric is actually a little shorter than 14' (I think around 10" shorter. You can see that in the pictures, you measure the awning length you need from one centre point of the bracket/leg to the other). You need to order a sail rail which is at least 10cm longer than the fabric on each end.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15885210198538491361noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7000745913114663343.post-68283597324145515102014-01-24T16:27:00.000-08:002014-01-24T16:27:28.571-08:00Window TintHubby tinted the bus windows the other day. He had previously tinted both of our cars so he was pretty confident that the bus would be a simple job.<br />
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Once again, YouTube was a great tutor and after some research and a little trial and error, he was tinting like a pro.<br />
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If you're planning to do your own tinting, you need to make sure the tint you use is LEGAL (see previous post for the Vic Roads info). We had legal tint left over from doing the cars so the windows next to the driver's side and passenger side were done in that. All the other windows in the bus are not driving windows so they could have been blocked out if we wanted. We only wanted it to be a bit darker than the driving windows so we got the 15% tint. Not so dark that it blocks all of our natural light, but not so light that it is easy to peer in.<br />
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We got our tinting supplies from ProTinting on eBay. <a href="http://www.ebay.com.au/usr/protintingsupplies">http://www.ebay.com.au/usr/protintingsupplies</a><br />
We also got the little kit of squeegees and cutters which was a good decision! They are needed. For the cleaning of the windows and wetting agent, we opted for Johnson's Baby Shampoo. Just as the videos on the internet recommended (it does work).<br />
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We will need to get a couple of meters of frosted tint for the two windows where the bathroom will be AND it turns out that the passenger driving windows are slightly larger than all of the other windows so we need to get a little more of the 35% (legal) which is a bit wider than what we already have.<br />
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Here you can see the 2 bathroom windows which are not tinted (will be frost white) in the middle and the slightly lighter tint on the driver's door. Not sure why the white of the bus looks splotchy in this picture. I think maybe reflections off the house windows.<br />
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The passenger side. The open window at the front is the bigger one which we will need wider tint for. We still need to put the lights back on and fix up the front paint job! Whoops, got distracted with the tinting!<br />
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DO NOT tint the front windscreen. You're not allowed to and you'll fail your RWC. Also, the tinting shop I linked to earlier in the post, has a number of mirror and metallic tints for homes and businesses. You can't use any of these reflective tints on your vehicles... even though the colours are attractive and the idea of 1 way mirror windows is fun.<br />
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The back window did not turn out as well as the simple, square, side windows. It was a 2 person job which wasn't too difficult but the horizontal AND vertical bend in the window made it very difficult to tint. A number of 'fingers' and wrinkles appeared around the edges due to the window shape being 'bubble-like'. Oh well, you can't win them all! That back sticker also needs to come off. I'm not sure what it is glued with but it is difficult to remove cleanly and we have been chipping away at it, bit by bit.<br />
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Yesterday we drove the 3 hour round trip to get a part for the awning which the shop forgot to tell us we needed. Whoops! They DID give us a discount though.<br />
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Today we are compounding the paint and polishing it. Once again, the compressor and air tools are a godsend and are getting a work out.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15885210198538491361noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7000745913114663343.post-48734577958532400542014-01-19T02:34:00.003-08:002014-01-19T02:34:31.803-08:00A bit more paint.After a long week of 40C+ heatwave, we have finally has a cool day and managed to get the black sections of the bus completed (just a little more to do on the front, that is why the masking is still there, as you can see in the pictures). I am a bit arty and we are contemplating airbrushing a scene or something on the sides.<br />
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It is such a great feeling to begin to put all of the mirrors, rubbers and door handles back on! I can not wait to tint the windows. They should look great with the black paint as they will be quite dark, with the exception of the driving windows being legal tint for the RWC (here is a link to the info if you need it: http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/NR/rdonlyres/A4CCADAA-27D3-4EB6-8AE2-17F69F9DAE78/0/VSI2web.pdf ). The tint arrived in the mail last week.<br />
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Yesterday we picked up the awning. It is a Carefree branded awning, 14' long with curved, short hardware. The colour is Silver Fade. As usual, there are engineering requirements for the installation so I will write a whole new post about that later.<br />
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Now for updated photos of the paint!<br />
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As you can see, the dark tint should really set the black off. We will leave the aluminium windows as they are (I'll have to buff them up) because it would be difficult to get any paint to stick to them and if we did, it would end up scratching quite easily anyway.<br />
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You can see how we have painted the front and each side with the diagonal line heading up to the windows, this is to mimic the windows of the newer models. <br />
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The side mirrors have been painted with grey hammer coat (to match the wheels and bull-bar), as will the windscreen wipers. The headlights had pieces of perspex screwed over them, which was acting as headlight protectors. It was not UV stabilised and they were no good anymore. Luckily, the perspex was the exact size of the flat number plate protectors at Supercheap Auto. Voila! New headlight protectors. Keep an eye out for them on the bus later.<br />
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15885210198538491361noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7000745913114663343.post-75550726565252810822014-01-12T00:29:00.000-08:002014-01-12T00:29:13.301-08:00Question: How much paint can you get on a little Civilian?Answer: 2x 4l tins of base coat and 4x 4l of white.<br />
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FINALLY all of the white is down on the bus. <br />
After a few mistakes and a few more hours on YouTube trying to figure out what was going wrong, hubby managed to get all of the white paint finalised today.<br />
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Here are some FRESH pictures.<br />
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The overspray on the tyres will come off but I think we will get new tyres as these are retreads and not the best.<br />There is still some black paint to go around the windows and on the front of the bus. I will mask this black area to look like the newer model Civilians and Coasters as the shape is similar to this model but the windows and surrounding paint areas are slightly different. This should work quite nicely with the dark tint we got in the mail yesterday!</div>
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That flashing light sticker on the window is going and the back window will also be tinted dark. As you can see, the 'Brilliant White' colour shows up the few knocks on the panels. We opted not to get the panels worked on as there aren't many, they are quite small and I am planing to cover them with some airbrush work later. We kept the emergency stickers which weren't essential but the engineer likes extra safety stuff.</div>
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The paint is still soft (actually it was probably still drying when we took these pictures this afternoon!) but after it hardens (a week to a month) we will use a cutting compound and get some more shine happening. A week of 35-40C degree days forecast for the rest of the weeks should speed it up.</div>
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Ta daa! </div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15885210198538491361noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7000745913114663343.post-1424368975670008762014-01-01T23:00:00.000-08:002014-01-01T23:00:10.889-08:00More painting.For some reason I imagined painting the duco of the bus being one of the last things we would be doing. Turns out it is happening right now!<br />
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This is an extremely big job. <br />
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Even though we have been lucky and the bus is rust free (excepting a few patches of surface rust) there is still lots of work to do to prepare and paint it. <br />
There aren't any big 'dings' to patch or pop back into shape and the existing paint is in pretty good condition. Sanding the bus is still a necessity to make the new paint stick properly and that has taken days of work. <br />
The air sanders that we have purchased don't seem to heat up and stress like regular power tools so they have endured longer working times.<br />
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We opted for acrylic lacquer paint. The end result will be softer than enamel but it is much easier to lay down and you get a better result. Also, the colours we want are shelf-standard colours at Supercheap Auto which makes it MUCH easier... no mixing anything special.<br />
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First we sanded and treated any rust we could see.<br />
Filled small nicks and dings (we have not done this perfectly but it is still looking better than leaving it).<br />
Sanded and tidied up stickers, bubbles and chips in the existing duco and sanded the whole bus with a 200 grit sandpaper to 'rough it up'. Then we used a finer paper to get rid of the deep sand-marks.<br />
We washed the dust off and cleaned any greasy stuff off.<br />
We masked sections and undercoated with about 6 coats of regular grey primer.<br />
Sanded with very fine sandpaper, washed.<br />
Masked and painted about 6 coats of white topcoat.<br />
(We did take off a few bits so we didn't have to mask it all).<br />
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Photos of the progress so far:<br />
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Roof sanded and ready to spray with undercoat.</div>
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All undercoated! </div>
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Roof undercoat from the back.</div>
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...And from the top.</div>
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Colour going on.</div>
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From the back.</div>
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Just the roof done. The paint colour is 'brilliant white' and it sure is whiter than the original dirty duco!</div>
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Now to undercoat the sides.</div>
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Here you can see how we took some parts off, sanded off the peeling stickers and masked all the rest.</div>
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For spray painting lessons we hit YouTube. It is amazing how much you can learn off the internet if you can filter out all of the misguided and crazy stuff!</div>
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